In short. Scar work on skin that is still breaking out is wasted work. Control comes first, and the sequencing decision matters more than any choice of treatment.

Key points

  • Three steps in that order, with the second one often some months after the first.
  • The step people try to skip is the middle one, and it is the one that decides whether the third is worth doing at all.

Of all the decisions in this decade, this is the one where the order matters more than the choice. Scarring is the record of inflammation that has already happened. While inflammation is still happening, treating the surface is work against a tap that has not been turned off.

Why the order cannot be reversed

Every new deep lesion is another opportunity for a scar to form in the same area. Sessions aimed at the marks already there do not prevent that, and part of what each session achieves is undone by damage that happened between appointments. Patients who start with the surface describe months of treatment with little to show, and the explanation is usually in the sequence.

What controlling acne involves

Control is a medical plan, not a product choice. It means identifying the pattern: whether the acne is related to the menstrual cycle, to a medicine, to a cosmetic product, or to something else, and choosing a treatment that matches its severity, with a clear idea of how long it will run and how it will be judged. Some effective treatments take months to show their full effect and need monitoring while they are used, and that is a normal part of the plan rather than a sign it is failing.

Why stopping early is the common mistake

Skin that looks clear is not necessarily skin that has stopped making acne. Stopping as soon as the surface settles often allows the condition to return, and the second round scars the same areas again. A plan that ends without a view on what happens afterwards is a plan that is likely to be repeated, and each repetition adds to what the skin is left with.

What can reasonably happen meanwhile

While the acne is being controlled, the useful work is unglamorous: keep the routine short and non-irritating, protect the skin from the sun so that marks darken less, and stop picking, which is the single largest avoidable cause of scarring. Those measures do not treat scars, and they reduce how many more are made. Anything that promises to treat scarring while the acne is active is being sold ahead of the assessment.

Control first, then assess, then treat

Three steps in that order, with the second one often some months after the first. The step people try to skip is the middle one, and it is the one that decides whether the third is worth doing at all.

When the acne itself needs urgent medical attention

  • Deep, painful nodules or cysts, or acne that is leaving a mark with every breakout.
  • Acne with fever, spreading redness or severe pain, which may indicate infection rather than acne.
  • Acne that flares badly after starting or stopping a medicine, or that comes with new hair growth or cycle changes.

The sequence is not a delay for its own sake. It is the difference between a plan that finishes and a plan that keeps restarting, and it costs nothing except the patience to get the first step right.

Related reading

Frequently asked questions

How long after my acne settles should I wait before treating scars?

Long enough that the skin has been genuinely stable rather than quiet for a week. Many colour marks fade over the months after inflammation stops, so treating immediately means treating things that would have resolved anyway, and it means treating skin that is still remodelling. The usual approach is to wait several months and then reassess what is actually left.

Can I treat scars and acne at the same time?

Sometimes the medical treatment of acne continues while scar work is planned, but the procedural side is normally held back until new lesions have stopped forming. Doing both at once on skin that is still active means the surface is being treated while new damage is being made underneath, and the sessions achieve less than they would later.

What if my acne keeps coming back after treatment?

That is the situation where the sequencing question matters most. If the acne returns each time treatment stops, the first task is a proper plan for the acne itself, including how long treatment runs and what happens afterwards. Procedural work on skin in that cycle tends to be repeated rather than completed.

Risks & Limitations

  • Nothing offered at this age is risk-free; every treatment has a complication rate.
  • Treated skin can leave a pigment mark of its own, and deeper skin tones carry the higher risk.
  • Acne scarring is the one outcome in this decade that cannot be reversed once it has formed.
  • Over-treating the barrier turns manageable skin into reactive skin, and recovery takes months.

When to Seek Care

  • Acne that is deep, painful or leaving marks — see a doctor rather than a counter assistant.
  • A mole or mark that changes size, shape or colour, or that bleeds.
  • Sudden hair loss, or a rash after starting a new medicine.
  • A reaction to a product bought online, especially swelling, redness or rebound breakouts.

References & Further Reading

  • American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) — procedure and safety guidance
  • National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE, UK) — relevant guidance
  • Cochrane Library — systematic reviews
  • Chinese Medical Association Plastic Surgery Branch — clinical guidance

Medically reviewed by Tongchun Mao, MD (毛彤春), Deputy Director & Head of Aesthetic Surgery. Last reviewed: 19 September 2026.

This page is patient education, not medical advice, and it does not cite individual studies. Discuss your own case with a qualified clinician. To arrange an assessment at Chongqing West District Hospital, see Contact & Consultation.